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Your skin after the summer

Retinol or.

The topic of discoloration and dry skin comes back to us every autumn. The skin after excessive exposure to the sun is dehydrated, rough, inex elastic and unfortunately eschemed with spots – discoloration. The problem would not be if the care in the summer was conscious, as was the approach to sunbathing itself.

At the outset, I will remind you what happens to the skin when it is under the influence of solar radiation. That is, when we did not apply the cream with a filter. Of course, it is worth remembering that the use of the cream in the morning does not give us protection at noon, such a cream should be applied on average every two hours. And in the case of bathing in water, the exposure to sunlight is even higher. The skin then accepts more radiation because it shines.

UV radiation is reflected or absorbed through our skin. I will not describe the whole process, istotne it is quite complicated and what is important is that during the skin we sunbathe improperly erythema is formed. This is an inflammatory process that leads to dangerous diseases, mainly skin cancer – melanoma. So, prevention is the best protection. Burns should always be prevented, because we never know when this burn can be the last before the disease. Here I refer to biochemistry or skin physiology, it is worth getting acquainted with the action of the p53 gene and the fact that currently we can not predict when this important gene for skin protection will be destroyed.

In addition to health problems, tanning is unfortunately a way to age the skin faster and discoloration. Discoloration is the real bane of many people, especially when hormonal or genetic problems occur.

How do discolorations arise?

Brown discoloration is melanin produced in melanocytes and sent to keratinocytes in melanosomes. Melanin is a biopolymer, a compound composed of many smaller units, the basic component of which is tyrosine. Tyrosine is activated by tyrosine. The whole process is the body’s defensive response to radiation.

How to get rid of minor discoloration?

Minor discolorations such as freckles are basically a small cosmetic problem. It is easy to remove them with treatments with acids such as lactic acid, almond acid or kojic acid. These are surface discolorations that we will remove together with the kera epidermis. It is worth to go for such a treatment to your beautician, who by the way will offer nutritional care of much-needed dried and flaccid skin.

Deep discoloration, chloasma.

A much greater challenge is the treatment of the skin on which the chuda appeared. Chuda (or melasma) is a large brown patch on the skin of the face (forehead, cheeks, temples, upper lip).

The main factor causing the ostuda is, of course, exposure to UV radiation. But the formation of discoloration is also influenced by genetic predisposition, the use of hormone replacement therapy, intestinal parasites, ovarian tumors. The susceptibility of the skin to discoloration stains formed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation can increase in people using drugs. These include: cytostatics, antifungal agents, analgesics and anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, diuretics, also included in hormonal drugs estrogens.

Also herbs such as calendula and St. John’s wort, have a photosensitive action. Therefore, they should be abandoned in the summer. This may also occur due to the use of cosmetics (especially perfumes) containing citrus extracts. Men using substances that stimulate testosterone production also run the risk of developing a chloasma.

Treatment in the office of aesthetic medicine.

Retinol.

When the heat disappears, we can take advantage of treatments with retinol and vitamin C. Retinol acts quickly, affects the exfolation of the epidermis, reduces the size of melanocytes and reduces the amount of melanin. In addition, it affects the synthesis of collagen and elastin, therefore, will make the skin look younger. During treatment with retinol, creams with high photoprotection should be used without or without treatment, because retinol reacting with the sun will cause further discoloration, unfortunately in the deeper layers of the skin. Such remove is difficult.

It is very important that the client of the beauty salon understands this process and here the cosmetologist should take care of the education of each of his clients in this regard. I know from experience that, despite knowing what we are not allowed to do, most of us will not follow the recommendations simply because they do not understand the process itself.

Medical peeling.

Medical peeling gives very good results in most patients. It is worth to perform it after an earlier treatment with retinol) (willdisperse the pigment). We use medical peeling no earlier than 3 weeks after the end of treatment with retinol. In addition, the use of medical peeling will also reduce fine wrinkles (will affect the increased synthesis of collagen and elastin). It is important that after the procedure for the recovery period do not expose the skin to sunlight and use filters with high SPF as with retinol treatment.

Currently, beauty salons offer several types of medical peels, helpful in the fight against discoloration. They inhibit the synthesis of melanin and block the transport of melanosoms, thanks to which they brighten the skin. They stop hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosine activity. They remove dye cells by exfoliation of the epidermis at various levels. Recovery lasts about 7-10 days. It is best then to stay at home, apply oily creams and give up makeup. Beauty products should not contain fragrances and potential irritants during this time, as they will slow down the process of skin regeneration. Price approx. 1500 PLN.

Skin nutrition.

If you do not have problems with difficult discolorations and so it is worth going to the beautician for a nutritional treatment. The range of such treatments is also very rich. A well-known aerobic infusion, which is aimed at improving cell metabolism, hydration, firming, alignment of skin tone, as well as regulating the secretion of sebum is a cost of about 450 PLN. The treatment gives immediate effects.

For those who appreciate natural care, affecting the relaxation of the fesces and lymph flow, a good treatment will be facial massage, performed on oil products (without fragrances and preservatives). Massage through skin relaxation allows for greater penetration of nutrients (vitamins, lipids) into the skin. Such treatment will also smooth the skin, accelerate its metabolism, gently brighten, and increase hydration. Here, too, we do not wait long for the effect, in addition, facial massage is extremely pleasant and there are no indications for it. If it is performed with hands (without tools), there are no contraindications for oncological patients, with the fact that the massage itself is a kind of stroking, without oppression for the safety of the patient. Price approx. 200 PLN.

Home care.

At home, it is worth focusing on the exact daily cleansing of the face. Preferably multi-step. Peelings used at home should be gentle and frequent. They will allow exfoliation of dead epidermis, without excessive abrasion, which gradually will brighten the skin. The small step method is much more effective than strong friction. I advise against the use of granular peels, the effect of which is short-lived and too irritating to the skin.

For the night we use creams with low concentration of AHA acids for daily care for a change with a concentrated oil serum. Such serums with a predominance of unsaturated fatty acids and phytosterols, which we find in oils made of baobab seeds, pomegranate, maruli oil, smooth the skin, reduce its superficial tone. The addition of regenerative adaptogens found in the root of the castor (macerates) and flavonoids, which in abundance in oils of black cumin, neem, tamane, will neutralize free radicals, while improving the overall condition of the skin. Positively affect the quality of sebum, strengthen the violated hydrolipid barrier. This will reduce the risk of new irritations and regulate skin metabolism. We will get rid of dry skins and irritations. We will strengthen hydration, which will give the effect of firm and elastic skin.

In conclusion,

let us remember that the sun, which gives us great energy to live, can also make us feel good about it. That is why sunscreen is so important. However, when the proverbial milk has spilled, let us not panic! Aesthetic medicine and cosmetology are an industry rapidly evolving. Today we can significantly improve the condition of the skin, which struggles with all sorts of sun discoloration.

Dry skin

Why is it so important to protect the skin against moisture loss?

Dry skin affects most of us. Sometimes it is associated with poor care, sometimes with excessive hygiene. No matter what the cause of dryness, it will always lead to skin diseases and even reduced immunity. On the cosmetic side, just use it to look worse. Fight irritation, healing or just get older faster.

Dry skin has a disturbed hydrolipid barrier. That is, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is not available. Loss of water from deeper layers of the skin slows down metabolism, i.e. its renewed. The keratinization process is disturbed, keratinized epidermis is difficult to peel off, which causes clogging comparisons and rough skin. Dry skin, also does not synthesize collagen and elastin enough to keep it firm. The longer they are struggling with dry skin, the greater the eczema response or inflammatory response to different types of allergens. Then it will only get worse.

What can we do?

To relieve the symptoms of dry skin and thereby prevent its various diseases or stop the aging process, we must stop water loss (TEWL). We will not do this unless we rebuild the hydrolipid barrier. This barrier creates sebum. However, with dry skin, our sebum has the wrong composition. Instead of focusing on products that work deeply, you should pay attention to the nutrition of the outermost layer of the skin. That is the stratum corneum. This is where our sebum affects the proper regeneration process, called keratinization. It is a continuous process, when it is correct, it is almost invisible. The skin is constantly peeling, the goal should be to care for this process that accelerates.

So how do you care for your skin to speed up its metabolism?

Care in 3 simple steps: cleansing, exfoliation and nutrition. If cleansing and exfoliation alone are not difficult to control, then just eating your skin can be a problem.

First of all,

when choosing nutritional cosmetics, it’s best to choose ones that contain fatty acids, preferably unsaturated. Raw materials such as shea butter, baobab seed oil, cocoa butter are rich in ingredients that naturally occur in healthy sebum. Therefore, they will be the best nutritional cosmetic. They will provide the stratum corneum exactly the substances it lacks. Unsaturated fatty acids are invaluable in care. They immediately reduce skin tension, regulate sebum production (even if the problem is not dry but also oily skin). They smooth and make it softer and more pleasant to the touch.

Secondly,

it is best if the cream does not contain water. It is completely unnecessary for this care. In addition, there is a lack of water, very often no preservatives, which is better for irritated skin and still safe for it (cosmetics without water, they do not need preservatives).

Cosmetics recommended for problematic, excessively dry or irritated skin are creams ili ola Aleksandra Kubas. These are creams, like nutritional concentrates, ideally suited to the needs of dry skin. Creams do not contain water, and thanks to unprecedented production technology retain all unsaturated fatty acids. They are like a compress that reduces skin tension and soothes irritations. They give immediate relief.

The skin in the next few hours becomes smooth, soft and pleasant to the touch. Creams have the form of a mousse that does not leave sticky skin, does not rub off it. Good skin adhesion is definitely the biggest plus of these cosmetics. Thanks to this, you stop water loss for many hours, which is an indirect moisturizing effect.

Remember that moisturized skin is healthy, young-looking skin. After 4 weeks of regular use, the cream reduced the visibility of wrinkles by an average of 10% and increased skin firmness by up to 75%! There is no better proof that a good cream is a cream that does not interfere with constant skin renewal, definitely inhibits water loss and makes dry skin a temporary problem.

Take care of yourself!

Aleksandra

Stress

Stress as a cause of many skin diseases and methods of reducing it.

In these modern times, much is said about ‘civilization diseases’, which are often the result of prolonged stress. We know that stress is the cause of many ailments, however, most of us don’t follow doctors’ recommendations to slow down the pace of life or use simple relaxation techniques. The truth is, we misunderstand the concept of stress.

When we are experiencing stress, we often have changes in our appetites; we can suffer from sleep disorders when we are worried about something. There are various types of neuralgia, or pain, that are theoretically caused by ‘nothing’. Stress does not always cause nervousness and hot flashes, sometimes it simply prevents us from thinking correctly about our problems. If we do not follow the guidelines of occupational and sleep hygiene, sooner or later our body will start working differently because it will be “stressed”.

It is important to know that the relationship between poor skin conditions and psychological problems stem from the same mediators, i.e. substances that conduct impulses for the immune, nervous, and skin systems. In these cases, a holistic approach is the best way to get healthy and beautiful skin.

I struggled with a skin disease that I treated with a dermatologist, allergist, also in consultation with a cosmetic, dietitian and psychologist.

Skin problems directly related to the patient’s mental state.

The most common dermatological disease is acne, which affects 85-100% of the population (of different ages). It appears unpredictably and has a significant impact on the patients’ frustration. The immediate cause of acne is excessive seborrhea, abnormal keratinization, and colonization of sebaceous glands by P. acnes. The activity of sebaceous glands is regulated by nerve and hormonal factors (e.g. during puberty). Chronic stress stimulates the growth and increased activity of the sebaceous gland.

Stress is also a key pathogenetic element in the development of many other skin diseases. This is due to the presence of neuropeptide receptors on cells of the immune system. Chronic psychological stress leads not only to the activation of sebaceous glands but also to the increased secretion of adrenal androgens and stimulation of the production of cytokines (inflammatory mediators). These cytokines cause the secretion of histamine, which causes itching of the skin and is manifested in more frequent contact urticaria. Unfortunately, this affliction causes the wheel to circulate, as stress increases, so does the production of cytokines that release histamine and results in itching, which causes irritability, shallow sleep, even more stress, and the wheel keeps turning.

Atopic dermatitis (AD), psoriasis, and alopecia areata are other skin diseases that are highly associated with our well-being and mental health. They are classified as psychosomatic diseases. Their symptoms increase during prolonged stress and, as in urticaria or acne, while they are not life-threatening diseases, they often reduce the quality of life. AD is also strongly associated with the immune system, and as noted above, is related to the nervous system. There are many scientific articles that recommend various types of relaxation techniques for the treatment of AD.

What can we do to protect ourselves from chronic stress and as a result feel and look better?

Just “resting” is not enough because most of us don’t really rest. We need to learn how to rest by gradually adding various relaxation techniques, music therapy, aromatherapy, or massages.

Starting with home care, we should use cosmetics whose application requires a short self-massage, e.g. face and body oils. Even a few minutes of auto-massage during the application of the cosmetic will improve the appearance of the skin. Gentle peels including salt and body brushes improve blood circulation. A noticeable improvement in skin tone, thanks to massaging, can significantly improve our mood

The next step is music, preferably relaxing, which we can find on the Internet, from Tibetan bowls, the flute, to the sounds of the forest.

We can also meditate at home. For many years, scientific research has been conducted to learn how meditation affects mental health. These studies found that meditation effectively reduces stress, improves mood, and helps treat depression and eating disorders such as bulimia or anxiety.

How does meditation reduce stress? Regular practice of meditation changes the activity and structure of brain regions involved in the development of mental diseases (which are directly related to stress). This happens by influencing our focus on the present and less on our own emotions or stimuli received by the body. Meditation can result in a change in our basic mental processes, such as increased concentration and mental performance. At the same time, it can help with our emotional processing, thus resulting in a less distorted self-perception.

These positive results occur not only during meditation itself but also between sessions. Observation of the brain shows that meditation affects changes in activity in the network of basic excitations, the so-called DMN (Default Mode Network), more precisely, it reduces the phenomenon of wandering thoughts. Wandering thoughts are simply a lack of focus when we can’t stop thinking about something we can’t influence at the moment. Wandering thoughts also occur when we are thinking about something that is not related to our current task, “we have our heads in the clouds”. When we need to focus on solving a problem the attention network is activated, the so-called DAN (Dorsal Attention Network). The important role of meditation is, therefore, to get rid of wandering of thoughts and emotional approaches to assessing the situation. Meditation, simply speaking, allows us to accept ourselves as we are and to stop worrying about things that we have no influence on. In addition, meditation makes our brains more effective, which increases self-acceptance and reduces stress.

There are various forms of meditation. At the beginning of our practice, we can choose the method of zazen meditation, which consists of sitting for 10-20 minutes in the correct position. We don’t set any expectations but rather simply sit with our eyes closed. We try to focus on our breaths, which can be counted to ten and back. The second good introductory method is the guiding visualization method. During meditation, we listen to recordings of some scenery. This method gives very good relaxation effects immediately. Many recordings are publicly available on the web.

Home aromatherapy is also very effective and inexpensive. Essential oils have great power because their substances are volatile, get into the body through the nostrils, and get into the blood quickly. Fragrances greatly affect the subconscious, they decide whether we eat something, enter a specific room, or decide on a specific purchase. We can choose aromatherapy oils that are pleasing to us and have specific advantages. Studies have shown that rose oil stimulates the central nervous system and affects our dreams, making them longer and clearer. Rose oil also increases our ability to concentrate. In contrast, lavender oil has a calming effect, which has also been proven. Just turn on the diffuser or dissolve the wax in the scented fireplace with the selected blend of essential oils. We can also use aromatherapy in a warm bath. In this case, a few drops of oil should be added to the bathtub.

When choosing relaxation techniques outside the home, we should choose facial or body massage. Massage is an unrivaled form of relaxation that many people like. After a massage, we are rested, relaxed, and satisfied because we have done something good for ourselves.

The massage relaxes the fascia (their structures contain nerve endings), removes muscle tension, reduces the pain of various origins, and improves blood supply to the skin, which affects its color and faster metabolism. If I were to recommend a special massage, it would be a Kassaji facial massage. It is made of volcanic stone, basalt, which is manually polished. Its task is to reduce swelling caused by lymph stasis, which gives lifting effects. The massage itself is extremely relaxing, followed by visibly more beautiful and luminous skin. In Warsaw, such a massage is performed by a great cosmetologist, Anna Grela. In her Beauty Workshop, apart from massage, we can use the auto massage course for self-massage at home.

The saying “healthy body, healthy mind” has a lot of truth. Mental health has a direct impact on physical health and thus on our appearance. Physical health impacts mental health as well – when we are physically unwell, we often become stressed and suffer its resulting consequences. To help ourselves quickly and effectively, we only need a few simple methods that do not require much financial input or time. Twenty minutes a day for meditation and a pleasant fragrance of essential oils while listening to relaxing music while we’re at home does not require much self-discipline. When our health is at stake, we must learn to really rest and take care of ourselves both mentally and physically. A relaxing massage at our favorite beauty salon will result in a sort of bliss. A bliss that will pay off with a fresh, youthful and healthy look.

A cosmetic that is perfect for skin problems and its fragrance will improve your mood. In the application, 100% of women confirmed that their application is pleasant and improves their mood!

Take care of yourself!

Aleksandra

Perfect skin

Perfect skin? Two simple steps are enough – the correct exfoliation process depends on them.

You look in the mirror and wonder where do you get pimples, lumps or rough skin in some places? You take care of her! Are you sure you are doing it right?

Let’s assume that you are healthy / healthy, eat well, do not overdo it with stimulants, and yet your skin, unfortunately, causes you problems … Why is that?

I will start with the fact that all your care should focus on the outermost layer of skin, which is called the stratum corneum. It is an extremely thin film that serves as a barrier to pathogenic microorganisms, prevents excessive water loss (TEWL), and the proper functioning of all layers of the skin depends on its quality. When choosing cosmetics, focus on decent, but also gentle cleansing and protection of the skin. Do not think about whether the cosmetic penetrates deeper or not. If the stratum corneum is not working properly, nothing deeply absorbed will help.

Start proper care today in two steps, and I guarantee you that you will quickly notice the desired effects. Then you will be able to add more cosmetics to the care, more treatments, the skin will be well prepared for them.

Cleansing

The first mistake in daily care is incorrect or “sloppy” skin cleansing. If you do it quickly, inaccurately, you irritate the skin, making it ugly red, dry, the pH is upset, the protective layer is damaged, and it is still uncleaned. A quick way to get more pimples, excessive seborrhea, or flaking on dry skin.

How to cleanse the skin properly?

First dissolve the dirt that is on it.

You can use oils for this, coconut oil is sufficient, due to bacterial, fungicidal and virucidal effects, and because it is simply a good solvent for dirt that stuck to the skin during the day, and makeup.

Spread the oil on your hands and gently massage the face, I do it for about a minute. This is enough, and for this massaging the face stimulates lymph flow, improves blood circulation (in a word, you improve its tone and tension). Then rinse with warm water (you will not wash the oil thoroughly with water alone, because for this you need an emulsifier that is not in the oils, it does not matter, it’s not over yet).

The next step is to wash away the remaining impurities and the oil used.

Choose very gentle washing liquids for this, you no longer need aggressive surfactants, because the dirt has already been “torn off” from the skin, it is easy to wash it off.

I recommend gentle cleansing liquids, e.g. from Beyond Organic Skincare. They are quite watery, light, based on aloe juice, gently foam, because they contain betaine as a washing ingredient, it is not an aggressive detergent, you would not wash your makeup with liquid alone, and certainly not exactly, but now this gel will cope perfectly. The skin will be clean and not tight.

The gel can be bought from Ania Grela, in the Beauty Workshop.

The final stage of cleansing is gentle exfoliation.

Peeling, because we are talking about it, should be gentle so as not to “tear” the skin, but peel off what does not fall off (the horny layer is still peeling off, proper peeling is almost invisible, while when the skin is too dry, desmosomal connections are too strong and must be mechanically peeled or dissolved with acids). It is very important not to use coarse peels, they do not have the same power as these tiny grains (salt peels, technologically well thought out, will make the skin smooth, slightly pink and clean).

One that I can recommend with a clear conscience is the Kire Skin peeling, you will find it here: (I love it!), I do not like mechanical peels. They are either too irritating or unpleasant to use, it is difficult to rinse, etc. But this one is made with the head! The salt is fine, which easily allows for the intensity of abrasion controlled by water (adding water, the peeling will be milder), it also contains a lot of plant extracts, and it’s antioxidants (I wrote about oxidative stress here). The peeling smells nice, naturally, is easily removed, and does not leave oily skin (despite the oil base).

Finally, spray your face with tonic (any water with the addition of plant extracts will be good, it’s important to leave the tonic on your face, not rub the skin with a cotton swab. It is not used for cleaning, only to neutralize the pH.

Now your skin is clean! Really clean and admit it, its color is simply healthy and touch gives you pleasure.

Humidification

Apply a cream on such cleansed skin.

What mistakes are you making?

You use completely hopeless creams. The ones you think are “light” and “quickly absorbed”. They only ruin your evening ritual and evaporate quickly.

Creams do not absorb, they evaporate, because most are made of water. And the water does not penetrate the stratum corneum from the outside (otherwise a normal bath would be quite dangerous ????)

There will be a bit of cream, oil emulsifier on the skin (and there is really a few percent in the recipe) and … that’s it. In the morning the skin will be gray and ugly again ☹

What cream should you choose?

Choose one that will prevent water loss (reduce TEWL), take care of the lipid layer, and nourish the skin. The best you can choose is here. The cream will not evaporate (because there is no water in it), it will not be absorbed (it will stay where it should be, on the epidermis, on the layer you need to ensure that all skin is healthy). Strange right?

The cream will not leave an oily layer, just an incredibly smooth and slightly illuminated face. The omega acids contained in the cream will soften the epidermis, regulate sebum production (with excessive production, reduce it, and with very dry skin will finally make it soft, thanks to linoleic acid).

Apply the cream with gentle massaging movements. With very dry skin, you can apply a little more and treat it as a mask for the night. This cream, thanks to its excellent adhesion to the skin, will help skin regeneration all night long, making it look better the next day. I guarantee that not only you will notice it. ????

What will happen in your skin now?

First of all, thanks to proper cleansing, nothing new will pop out for you.

Secondly, on such cleansed skin, nutritional cosmetics will be able to work freely.

Natural cream, thanks to its amazing moisturizing properties, will accelerate skin metabolism. Fast metabolism means faster skin renewal, faster and less visible exfoliation, faster getting rid of minor sun spots, healing wounds, scratches, or acne residue. Thanks to the omega acids, the skin will be soft, and if you struggle with excessive sebum secretion, linoleic acid (present in the cream) will make your skin produce less and not be as thick as before.

This entire evening ritual will last no more than 10 minutes. You need so much time to quickly improve your skin condition.

In the morning, wash your mouth with the same gentle liquid, spray your face with tonic and apply a bit of natural cream. It will also take care of your skin very well during the day, suitable for makeup and will still prevent water loss, which is necessary for the proper functioning of the skin.

Take care of yourself

Aleksandra

Hybrid manicure when it can be harmful?

Hybrid manicure when it can be harmful?

Do you like painting your nails?

Regardless of what sort of manicure you have chosen, you should get to know more about the safety of hybrid nail polishes, UV lamps, or acetone.

Ready to learn a little bit?

To start with, let me remark that any single cosmetic you treat or fingernails or toenails with is designed for healthy nail surfaces (plates) – so never use a polish, gel, acetone, or any other beautifier in case your brittle, splitting, cracking, or peeling-off nails cause you problems!

In any such case, you should visit your doctor rather than a beautician.

Once you have come to terms with the pathologies (if any) of your nail plates—and have not lost the will to have your nails coloured—then have a go for it! Yet, to make a wise choice, decide for yourself what it is that you are expecting, and what are the possible consequences you might find bearable. Let me hope that this article will provide you with all the answers you seek. ?

Question 1: Can a hybrid manicure put your health at risk?

Hybrid manicure will NOT be dangerous if properly made and if hygiene is observed. (Take note whether your manicurist’s workplace is kept clean and hygienic: it MUST be disinfected, the same holds true for any single thing she touches while working!) What is potentially detrimental in such manicure technique is its unskilful removal. Based on my experience, the best method to have a hybrid polish removed is to use a drill—obviously, in a way so as not to damage any of the nails, and very carefully. When removing the previous hybrid and intending to apply a new one, the base coat is not to be removed unless air-penetrated. Filing the nails down to the nub is a misconception: to apply everything anew, the nail ought to be matted rather than filed—otherwise the plate will be excessively thinned and when we decide to discontinue the hybrid manicuring once the previous hybrid layer was removed, the nail will be too weak, no longer capable of performing its protective function, with the result that your fingers might be aching when washing your hands, for instance.

After you apply the hybrid polish, it needs being hardened. Hybrid polishes owe their strength to the polymers. Polymers are compounds with long chains, which are hard to severe, and thus quite durable. Polymerisation is a reaction that occurs at high temperatures or pressures, or in presence of a catalyser. For polishes, the UV lamp is used as the catalyser.

Question 2: You have probably repeatedly read, or heard, that UV radiation emitted by the lamp is cancerogenic. Is it true?

The answer is, NO. ?

The radiation we are exposed to when applying hybrid manicure is too short to exert an adverse influence on our organism. The radiation is the UVA, identically as the one reaching us from the Sun; it influences us all year round, deeply penetrating and causing decomposition of collagen fibres – which means, aging of the skin. An examination carried out a few years ago has demonstrated that UV lamps are safer than a solarium or even driving a car on a sunny day. It was moreover found that the outer side of the hand is 3.5 times more radiation resistant than the skin on the back, and fourfold more resistant than that on the cheeks or forehead; the nail plate itself is a UV blocker comparable to sunscreen SP 40 and thus efficiently protects the nail bed. The study was done by by Dr. John Dowdy and Dr. Robert Sayre, both recognised as scientific leaders in UV radiation research. Associated with the University of Tennessee Health Science Center’s Department of Dermatology and the Department of Physics, University of Memphis, Dr. Sayre has invented the SPF evaluation system.

UVB radiation is dangerous. Reaching us in the summer, when overdosed, it causes erythema (redness) and can potentially cause, for instance, malignant melanoma (melanotic cancer); what it also does is synthesise vitamin D. As is evident, moderation is of paramount importance in this respect.

UV lamp would not damage the nail matrix (onychostroma), unless exerting a strong impact directly on your finger. Bear in mind that the matrix can be damaged mechanically, by biting the cuticles!

You have done your mani, but friends are telling you that your plate is not breathing! You should know, though, that the nail is a dead tissue which does not breathe at all. It is built of keratin and its job is to protect the fingertips. The nail plate will be healthy if you take good care of the nailfolds, bed, and matrix. Improper cutting out of cuticles, or biting them, may lead to infection, and sickness may affect the nail–something that applying the polish in line with the manufacturer’s instructions will never do!

Another problem is dryness. It is seemingly gnawing you after a long-time use of hybrid polishes. You will probably be taken by surprise again as you will find that it only seems so.

True, during your visit at the manicurist your nail will come into contact with acetone, for instance. A non-toxic solvent, acetone is classified as irritating substance. It irritates the skin and causes its flushing which, when applied for some time, resembles a burn. Tests performed to date (regrettably, on animals only) have shown that acetone causes no damage to the DNA and is not cancerogenic. If you disinfect your skin before doing the manicure, it gets dryer again. You have to bear in mind, though, that it is your personal habit that matter the most. Washing your hands with a soap, washing dishes without gloves, or even drying your hands without a towel instead of using it—all this makes your skin, as well as your nails, dry. This is why you need to apply a cream that will protect your skin against external factors such as wind or sunshine* (while washing your hands, you wash up the hydrolipidic protective layer of your skin together with the dirt!).

*The best cream to treat your dry skin is available at our retail outlet! ?

How about a regular polish, then?

Ordinary polishes contain solvents which make the polish applicable at all; the polish gets hardened on the plate once the solvent volatiles (dries). Such polishes should be used in an airy room. A regular polish is washable using an acetone-free solvent. Yet, such a solvent will also dry your skin and the nail plate.

Solvents contained in polishes are examined and tested on an ongoing basis; some have already been withdrawn, or severely restricted in the market. Solvents are volatile substances. They get quickly absorbed into the organism through the respiratory tracts or the skin, and are metabolised in the liver. If you observe moderate frequency and remember to air the room in which you paint your nails, everything is going to be all right (assuming that your liver is sound….).

As a general remark, avoid painting your nails in presence of children and pregnant women.

This article owes a lot to the published scientific-research outputs, available at www.pubmed.com. The website contains numerous research reports by the aforementioned scholars. I have found no publication that would confirm a detrimental action of hybrid polishes or UV lamp.

Always ask, and expect the answer! Should you have ANY questions, just write to me so that I can reply. I will certainly be back with you! ? [a.kubas@iliola.com.pl]

Take care about yourself!

Aleksandra Kubas

Aromachology

Every day we inhale hundreds of molecules of scents. Those tiny molecules float in the air and each time we inhale the air, they get into our systems. In the process of the chemical compound from which the fragrance is built, the sense of smell takes part. Inside our noses are odour receptors that capture the fragrances which are immediately converted into a specific electrical signal. The signal is send to the olfactory bulbs and it is sent to the brain area responsible for the conscious or subconscious recognition of the smell and associating it with the stored pattern. We can distinguish many of these compounds from each other because the information of the type of the smell permanently fits in the memory of the brain. The type of compound the fragrance molecule is made of is deciphered in a fraction of a second. It is often accompanied by certain reactions to specific odour stimuli. They can evoke positive or negative feelings. Thanks to the sense of smell, we are able to sense the threat but also determine the direction from which it comes, for example, smell of burning or rotten food. Moreover, the smell can become a pleasant experience, especially if associated with the positive stimulus that caused it. Knowing the beneficial effects of the fragrance on the well-being, fields such as aromatherapy or aromachology paved their way. Aromatherapy is a method in which essential oils are used to absolve physical and psychological ailments. Aromachology deals with the impact of fragrance substances on the psyche, feelings and emotions. This phenomenon has been used by many companies as ‘aromamarketing’, that is, evoking positive emotions and associations with the use of appropriate scents. Companies commission the fragrance factories to produce a type of aroma that, when sprayed in the air, prompts the customer to buy the product or return to a specific place. It can be the smell of freshly baked bread at a bread stand or a fragrance mix, which is the same in any store, hotel or spa centre that orders it to be made. This is to make nice associations and return to this place or make purchases there. There are also fragrances that are associated with luxury. These include aromas of leather goods, colognes and cigars, e.g. in stores with exclusive watches and men’s accessories.

In drugstores there are many cosmetic products that are perfumed. We are used to the fact that the cosmetics smell good. We choose cosmetic products without odour much more rarely. The fragrance of the cosmetic should be tailored to its type and to the preferences of the target groups of recipients. Creams for women whose fragrance is matched to the targeted age group can serve as an example. Creams for 30-year-olds usually have a delicate citrus note or fragrance counted among fresh notes. In the 50+ age range, fragrance compositions with floral aromas dominate. Cosmetics for men smell of wood notes, i.e. cedar or earthy – patchouli and cologne. Natural cosmetics in order to increase their utility and caring properties are usually supplemented with natural essential oils. At the same time, these oils are also selected for their effect on the condition of the skin. One of the most well-known essential oils and also the most expensive is rose oil. To produce 1 kg of essential oil, about 2 tons of rose petals are used. This oil has a calming effect, lowers blood pressure and regulates the work of the heart. It has a rejuvenating and soothing effect on the skin and also prevents the dilatation of blood vessels.

Sandalwood oil has a beautiful oriental note that introduces a mood of calm and meditation. It has a disinfecting effect and is used to cope with inflammation of the skin as well as with sanitization of premises.

Bergamot oil is obtained from the Citrus Bergamia tree growing in the area of the Mediterranean basin. It has a beautiful refreshing citrus aroma. It is a valued raw material in perfumery products. It has antidepressant and anti-stress effects. On the surface of the skin works antiseptic and has found application in cosmetics dedicated to seborrheic and oily skin, but it is also used to relieve inflammation of the skin.

We used a blend of these three oils in Ili Ola face&body rejuvenating ritual. It was very highly rated by users of the scent, which in the conducted application tests evoked the feeling of relaxation and relaxation in the subjects, as well as affecting the good mood and the improvement of well-being.

Knowing the mechanism of action of the sense of smell and the influence of fragrances on the psyche and the human body, we can use natural essential oils to improve the mood and condition of the skin. Essential oils can be used during evening aromatherapy baths – we can pour 10-15 drops of your favourite oil into the bath tub or to the water in the tealight chimenea. The use of essential oils for perfuming the air in your home or workplace will have a positive effect on the well-being of people staying in space filled with nice, cosy smell (if the mixture is properly selected). It is also a 100% natural and safe method of perfuming rooms, because natural essential oils do not contain harmful substances often used in synthetic fragrances. That is why we should consciously buy natural essential oils according to our preferences. Remember that although they are invisible to the human eye, small fragrance molecules exert a beneficial effect on our health and well-being.

Menopause

Menopause is a natural physiological process which, at some point, will be of concern to all of us women. Apart from poor frame of mind, the skin will look not as good as before. This article is meant to make you more familiar with the problem and show you how to take care of ourselves so that we can all, each of us, feel comfortable and look good. ?

Menopause is a tough process that comes upon most of women after, more or less, five hundred menstruation cycles—at the age of forty-four to fifty-five. It is marked by ceasing sensitivity of the ovaries to the follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH) and the luteinising hormone (LH); as a result, their production of estradiol comes to an end. In consequence, the reproductive period in women is inevitably, and definitely, concluded.

How do sex hormones influence the skin?

Hormones would not have any essential influence on the functioning of living organisms, if not for the presence of receptors. The receptor is tasked with recognising the hormone to be targeted, and subsequently to convey the information comprised in it to the cell nucleus where the decision is made for the cell to take appropriate action, such as intensified or inhibited secretion of certain substances, or intensified cell divisions. One of the sex hormones named estrogen exerts an astonishingly powerful effect on human skin, triggering escalated proliferation of epidermis cells, decelerating the growth of hairs, simulating the cells to synthesise collagen and hyaluronic acid, and diminishing the sebum secreted by the skin.

The influence of progesterone is not fully explored yet; it is assumed that the hormone blocks the estrogen receptors in human skin.

How does menopause impact the organism?

Between the age of 44 and 55, the arteries gradually narrow, which leads to a shrinking of the ovaries and restricted secretion of estrogen – against increased production of FSH and progesterone. As a result, menstruations become irregular, flushing tends to appear; atrophy of the breasts, the vagina and vulva is possible as well. Also the calcium metabolism becomes upset. During the menopause, the required daily dose of calcium may exceed 1,000 mg (the standard dose being 600 mg); this is due to the parallel loss of bone mass, of to 0.5% to 3% per annum. This phenomenon is very dangerous as it may easily lead to osteoporosis caused by lesser bone mass density. However, if in the course of menopause an estrogen therapy is applied, the density of the bones will remain unchanged.

Changes occurring in the skin during menopause

Menopause is primarily accompanied by poorer elasticity and decreased density of the skin. The skin grows more fragile, thinner, less resistant to stretching, and duller.

Something that you would not normally notice on a daily basis but which is of extreme importance for women as far as beauty is concerned is estrogen’s action that limits the impact of testosterone on what you look like (and how you feel about it). Estrogen is namely formed by transformation of testosterone: with the fading activity of the ovaries, the testosterone level goes up, leading to multiple adverse consequences to the female organism. It may cause increased facial hair, growing secretion of sebum and, in effect, acne or seborrhoeic dermatosis (eczema). Another possible occurrence during the menopause is climacteric keratoderma (keratoderma climactericum), which is most cases appears in the form of skin thickening being a hyperplasia of the stratum corneum on the feet soles and hand palms. This often tends to occur in obese women.

How to treat you skin during menopause?

During the menopause, massages are particularly recommendable – especially massage of the face, steam baths, treatments boosting the skin’s firmness, resistance, and elasticity. Many a woman suffer from depression while menopausal. Depression appears as a side effect of vitamin D deficit; hence, apart from supplementing vitamin D, massage is highly recommended as a means to boost your wellbeing. Anti-solar protection is no less important, particularly for women with a phototype 1 skin. Daily skin care procedures are likewise indispensable to keep it properly dense, protected against drying and adverse action of diverse external factors. The skin should be well taken care of after the evening bath. Greasing and nutritive creams should always be applied, possibly shea butter-based (an excellent ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics) and with substances containing essential unsaturated fatty acids (EUFA). One such ingredient is baobab seed oil which takes care about the natural lipid layer of the epidermis, leaving your epidermis softened and smoothed. Both ingredients are contained in our creams—and both preserve their most valuable properties, for the creams are prepared at low temperatures.

You can really alleviate the menopausal symptoms with the help of your endocrinologist and cosmetologist, and with support of your relatives. Follow the opportunity––sand never lose your joy of life!

Unsaturated fatty acids

Unsaturated fatty acids: Why to start your treatment with them?

You must have heard, repetitively perhaps, about unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), or of acids named omega-3, 6 or 9. You know that these are healthy ingredients, with good influence on the skin and the hair, anti-cancer action included. And I know that once I have understood something, I can readily put it into practice. Today, I would like to share with you the knowledge that enabled the development of a cosmetic product that has rescued my skin (with all the problems it was causing me!) and helped to solve the skin problems of those close to me.

Let us start from the very beginning, though. There’s going to be some chemistry, but no worries—it’s not going to be long; and, once you read what I’m going to share with you, you’ll find it much easier to understand what it is that happens when something goes wrong (with your skin).

UFAs are acids that contain double bonds; normally, they are transparent liquids. Today, two main classes of UFA are discerned: monounsaturated fatty acids (or, mono-unsaturates) – those with one double bond (omega-9 acids belong to this group), and polyunsaturated fatty acids (poly-unsaturates), omega-6 and omega-3 acids among them. Poly-unsaturates have each at least two double bonds.

Fig. Wikipedia. The formula of linoleic acid (you can see two double bonds, therefore it is a polyunsaturated acid, exactly Omega-6).

The double bond is sensitive to high temperatures, which leads to severing it at 60 degree Celsius–and so, what we care so much about gets destroyed. Then, in order to enjoy its beneficial effects, you are recommended to use unprocessed oils that have never been heated up to such a temperature. Our creams are specially prepared using a cold processing method, which helps preserve all the UFAs. Sounds easy, doesn’t it. And easy it is, but tough at the same time; hence, not too many cosmetics can preserve such properties.

The linoleic acid, whose chemical formula is featured above, for dry skins improves the lipid barrier of the epidermis of dry skins and normalises the skin’s metabolism. It is a natural ingredient of sebum.

In users with acne-prone skin, a decrease in the content of linoleic acid in the sebum has been observed, which results in clogged pores and blackheads – and, finally, pimples or eczemas. Application of linoleic acid in treatment of oily or problem skins results in improved operation of the sebaceous glands, unblocked pores, and diminished blackheads. Linoleic acid is inbuilt in the structure of cell membranes and used in production of the skin’s intercellular cement;

both processes occur owing to the presence of the enzymatic complex in the stratum corneum.

Omega-3 fatty acids can reduce post-inflammatory substances induced by the detrimental UV radiation. These substances diminish the effects of sunburn whilst also stimulating repair processes and alleviating irritations.

All the omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 acids reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and thus works as an indirect hydrating agent. You have to be aware that your skin gets hydrated from the inside whilst the role or moisturising or hydrating cosmetics is to prevent evaporation of water through the epidermis.

Remember: water does NOT moisturise your skin from the outside, its molecules are too big to penetrate through the skin. Hence, when using creams containing water you feel as if they get ‘absorbed fast’, what you actually feel is the effect of evaporated water. Water has to be contained in a cream when it works as the solvent of other actives such as vegetal extracts or certain vitamins – never working however as a moisturiser.

Where can you find UFAs?

Most of the time, simply in oils:

Omega-9 – in shea butter (ca. 50%), cocoa butter (ca. 37%), baobab seed oil (ca. 15%–40%), argan oil (ca. 46%);

Omega-6 – in peach seed oil (ca. 25%), baobab seed oil (ca. 31%), parsley seed oil (16%–20%);

Omega-3 – in baobab seed oil (ok. 3%), linseed oil (ca. 48%), sea-buckthorn oil (ca. 30%), soybean oil (8%–10%), rosehip oil (28%–32%).

In sum, vegetal oils, depending on the percent share of individual acids in the fat molecule, display a diversity of characteristics. Their deficit may cause excessive peeling or exfoliation of the epidermis, or excessive production of sebum which will block the pores, leading to acne. Vegetal oils additionally soften the stratum corneum; in case of inflammation, they relieve the skin’s tightness, thus alleviating the sense of pain.

Should you have any questions, just email me at: a.kubas@iliola.com.pl, or leave your message on Facebook.

Take real care of yourself!

Aleksandra Kubas

Brilliant flavonoids

Now, I would like to talk to you a little about flavonoids – the compounds appearing in vegetables, fruits and herbs.

Flavonoids are brilliant-minded chemical compounds that give us everything we basically need: health, longevity, and cool look. ?

Flavonoids: What do you know already?

The Wikipedia tells us that flavonoids (also referred to as bioflavonoids, flavonoid compounds) are “a group of organic chemical compounds contained in plants and acting as colorants, antioxidants, natural insecticides and fungicides, protecting against attacks from insects and fungi. Most of them are colorants amassed in surface layers of vegetal tissues, giving the plant intense colour and restricting the noxious influence of ultraviolet radiation”.

Let us explain it, step by step:

Flavonoids are natural, biologically active chemical substances that are widespread in the vegetal world. Owing to their multiple biological characteristics, flavonoids form the most interesting group among polyphenols. It is to them that plants owe their characteristic smell, taste, and colour. The most typical colours are yellow and orange (produced by flavones and flavonols), blue-violet (anthocyanins), less frequently colourless or cream-white (catechins). Flavonoids determine the colours of flowers, fruits and leaves. More than 8,000 flavonoids have been discovered so far, with only 200 researched.

What use do we make of them?

In the human organism, flavonoids can have a role similar to that of vitamins. Their number-one quality is their proven efficiency as antioxidants, retarding the aging processes and bringing about beneficial health effects. A number of beneficial actions offered by flavonoids are based precisely on their antioxidant qualities and their ability to modify enzymes—particularly those responsible for immunological functions, cancerogenesis, and cellular transformations.

The antioxidant actions of flavonoids consists in:

inhibiting the activity of enzymes contributing to the generation of free radicals;

chelating the ions of transition metals participating in the origination of the free-radical reaction chain (click HERE to read more about free radicals);

reducing reactive forms of oxygen (RFO), including free radicals, to more stable and non-active connections;

inhibiting the ascorbic oxidase, thus preventing the oxidation of vitamin C and extending its action in the organism (routine).

On top of all this, flavonoids display anti-inflammatory (by inhibiting the secretion of histamine), anti-allergic, painkilling, and anti-swelling activities.

A flavonoid-rich diet and use of cosmetics containing these compounds has a very positive impact on preservation and keeping up a youthful appearance of the skin. Products comprising flavonoid compounds improve your skin’s moisture level, smoothen the skin and have a beneficial effect on biosythesis of collagen. Moreover, they prevent wrinkles and have a screening and tightening effect—and they protect your skin against the adverse effects of UV radiation (both UVA and UVB). Flavonoid compounds are mainly used in wrinkle-busters (anti-aging and nutritive cosmetics—in order to diminish the negative effects of sunbathing and photo-aging) and anti-acne products (fighting common/simple acne as well as acne rosacea).

The recommended consumption dose is approx. 1 to 2 g of flavonoids per day.

How much is this in fruit/vegetable amount terms?…. It’s about 3 kg. ?

A much more efficient influence of favonoid complexes contained in plants has been observed, compared to single synthetic or individualised substances. Hence, eating raw fruit and vegetables as well as consuming natural supplements (for their array of active ingredients and high bioavailability) is more justifiable than use of individual isolated flavonoids. Synergy is at work here, in that substances and other elements mutually collaborate and reciprocally intensify their action and effect.

The most reliable sources of flavonoids are:

dark-coloured fruits: red grapes, blackberries, pomegranates, chokeberries, blackcurrants, sour cherries, blueberries;

citrus fruits: oranges, grapefruits;

other fruits: wild rose (rosehips), sea buckthorn, haws;

vegetables: red beet, red cabbage, onion, garlic, broccoli, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce;

green coffee beans.

Flavonoid materials used in cosmetology include (among others):

yarrow (cosmetics regenerating oily skins with enlarged pores);

European white birch/silver birch (wrinkle-busters, anti-acne, anti-eczema)

small-leaved linden/lime (care/aftercare cosmetics for sensitive skins, hydrating/moisturising)

helichrysum inflorescence

Mediterranean milk thistle fruit

horsetail herb (eye cosmetics, wrinkle-busters, shampoos)

wild pansy/heartsease herb (anti-acne, anti-seborrhea)

In summary, flavonoids are substances whose use will enable you to longer preserve a nice and young skin, support your immunological system and nervous system, and minimise the discomfort accompanying skin allergies.

Eating about three kilograms of diverse vegetables and fruit a day, you can be reassured that you have provided your organism with sufficient quantities of flavonoid compounds. Raw fruit and vegetables is a definitely better solution than supplements. And, the very next time you ponder what wine to choose—a red or a white one, do have a go for the former! ?

The anging process of the skin

The aging of skin is a natural, genetically-programmed endogenous process which is conditional upon the biological clock. In contrast to it, exogenous aging is caused by external factors—mainly, solar radiation, coupled with lifestyle, work, amount of sleep, and daily skin care. These factors are highly associated with production of free radicals.

Free radicals – what is it??

Functioning without one electron, free radicals are comparable to tiny monsters: they attack sound cells of our organism to take away the electron they need.

Then, they destroy enzymes; as a result, collagen and elastin get damaged.

The process is referred to as oxidation.

The process in question has an adverse effect on our health and contribute to premature aging of the organism. It is because of them that the skin grows sensitive to irritations and becomes dry, losing its elasticity, which implies the appearance of wrinkles.

How to counteract, or prevent, oxidation?

To keep your skin fit, it needs being taken appropriate care of, with biologically active ingredients applied. Penetrating into the deeper layers of the outer skin (epidermis), they activate their regenerative, nutritive, and protective functions.

The substances that counteract the process are:

Vitamin A, retinol and its derivatives (initiate reconstruction of the cells);

UVA/UVB protection filters (protect against solar radiation);

Hydroacids (support regeneration);

Antioxidants (support protection and regeneration; for example, vitamin C)

Vitamin E (supports regeneration and prevents hyperpigmentation);

Phytoestrogens (inhibit the activity of elastase which is responsible for decomposition of elastic fibres);

Hyaluronic acid (fills up the spaces between collagen fibres and keeps the skin elastic);

Stem cells (nutritive and regenerative substances).

Aging of the skin: does hydration matter?

A number of problems are caused by inappropriate hydration or moisture of the skin.

Resulting from a deficit of water in the epidermis, regeneration of the latter is inhibited; the skin becomes visibly rough, oftentimes with cracks appearing. Degeneration of the collagen and elastin structures is a serious disturbance, leading to appearance of wrinkles.

When dehydrated, skin looses tension, firmness, and sound colouring.

To minimise such occurrences, use special cosmetic preparations that prevent water from escaping from the skin.

Excellent hydration effect is achievable thanks to the use of classical cosmetics such as creams, balms and lotions, or butters, which activate film-generating factors (a film develops on the skin’s surface to prevent water from escaping), along with hygroscopic compounds (absorption of moisture, binding of water)

If you have any questions, you can write to me by e-mail: a.kubas@iliola.com.pl leave a message on Facebook.

Take care of yourself!

Aleksandra Kubas